Thursday, June 18, 2009

I'm Ready for my Close-Up, Mr. DeMille

New York is a beautiful, fascinating city, full of architectural wonders, stunning women, and plenty of “only in New York” moments begging to be captured on film. We encourage you to catalog every minute of your trip here, so that you will never have to return.

Yes, we are laughing at you as you snap photos of Deutsch Bank memorial 9/11 fountains when behind the photographers’ right shoulder is the stunning wonder that is the Brooklyn Bridge. We question your studious cataloguing of random office buildings and street urchins banging on five-gallon plastic drums. I guess it’s all just a matter of taste….

At any rate, when shooting photos in New York City, don’t expect everyone in the vicinity to pause while you line up the perfect shot. Try and find a place out of the flow of traffic, keep the light behind you, and take your shot quickly. When shooting photos that you intend to show people as evidence of your family trek to Gotham, try and get your clan to stand in front of something that is instantly recognizable as New York. Remember, one office building looks very much like another at 5 by 7 inches.

Should you decide it is necessary to sit on the ground to get the perfect perspective, don’t be surprised if people step right over you. Here in New York City, we are accustomed to seeing people lying on the ground, and we won’t miss a beat circumnavigating you. If that doesn’t sit well with you, so to speak, do you part and avoiding sitting in places where people will be forced to step over you.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Where Not to Walk

If you are on your way to somewhere else and a prime tourist destination lies in your path, it is imperative that you find another way to circumvent that area. Knowing what these areas are will be invaluable in avoiding them.

--Times Square, at any time of day or night. Unless you are on your way to a Broadway show, there is no reason to ever go into Times Square, from 42nd to 50th Street, Broadway to Eighth Ave. This area is a Mecca for slow-moving tourists worldwide, who meander dragnet-style, gawking at the bright lights and street performers, and taking photos.

--Union Station during the Greenmarket, or at night when skateboarders fill up the back lot doing tricks, or on the weekends when every seat in the so-called park is full, or during construction, when hurricane fences and orange caution tape redirected large numbers of people through tiny spaces. Basically, do not go to here.

--Canal Street during the day—impossible to get down the street until after the shops close, around 8 p.m., after which it is a virtual ghost town.

--SoHo on the weekend—particularly Broadway between Spring and Prince Sts. Large groups of teenage tourists tend to gather in front of the Victoria’s Secret on Prince Street, somewhat inexplicably.

--Amsterdam and the West 80s—Loads of museum crowds looking for a cheap lunch spot, and slow-moving, rich elders. Just try and look cool after you’ve accidentally kicked some septagenarian's walker out from under them.

--The Meatpacking District at night—limos vie for position in front of mega bar/restaurants while drunken socialites attempt to navigate cobblestones while wearing stilettos. Hill-fucking-larious!

--Wall Street during rush hour—banksters rush blindly ahead toward subway entrances en masse. Tourists block the way, shooting pictures of the NYSE. Cops with semi-automatic weapons and K9 units glare dauntingly. Beware.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Avenues Vs. Streets

Thanks to the Commissioners Plan of 1811, all New York streets above 14th are set up on a grid system, with longer avenues running north/south, and shorter streets running east/west.

What this means is that the city is easily navigable when you are walking around on streets higher than 14th Street. For example, if you are at 18th and 7th and you want to be at 26th and 9th, you need to walk up eight blocks, and over two long avenues. (Just be careful if this is actually where you need to go, because it cuts through the projects, and can be a little dodgy at night.)

Keep in mind that eight blocks are easily walkable, whereas eight avenues are much less so. You can walk from 1st St. to 8th St. in four or five minutes; the trek from First to Eighth Avenue will take about forty-five minutes. Make your transportation arrangements accordingly (Tip: For east-west travel, a cross-town bus is often your best option. Whatever street you want to cross corresponds with that bus—the M14 goes down 14th, the M23 down 23rd, the M8 down 8th to Tompkins Square—great for getting to the Lower East Side.)

Thanks to public outcry by old-timey folks, the city’s builders added in a bit of green in the form of Central Park, but archeologists have located the original iron pegs, still planted in the park’s stone boulders, that demarcate where Sixth Avenue was originally intended to flow.

Another remaining exception to the grid plan is Broadway, an old Lenape Indian trail that starts downtown on the east side between Lafayette St. and 4th Avenue, and cuts diagonally west as it weaves uptown, crossing Amsterdam around W. 79th Street. The history is nifty, but know that where Broadway is when you’re downtown isn’t where it’s going to be when you travel uptown.

Should you venture below 14th Street into old Manhattan, all bets are off. Cobblestone streets come together at strange angles, and the natural (and man-made) topography of lower Manhattan narrows. Did you know? Parts of this Manhattan neighborhood used to not exist, until builders filled in the seaside with dirt and dead horses. Totally not shitting you here, people. Dead horses.

Use caution (and a map) to navigate these areas, and think outside the box: 7th Ave South. is a completely different thoroughfare than 7th Ave., and Greenwich Street is a nice long bit of a hike from Greenwich Avenue. Be sure not to mix the two up when asking for directions from New Yorkers, the friendliest people on earth.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Life in the Fast Lane

Watch New Yorkers negotiate crowded sidewalks with ease, and you may begin to have an appreciation for the unspoken laws that keep this great metropolis moving. Order in the midst of chaos doesn’t just occur, so we forgive you non-Gothamites for not understanding how to correctly move your bodies from point A to point B without invoking the ire of every angry Guido from Broadway to the Bronx. That said, we expect you to at least make an effort to not put this smooth-talking, fast-walking city to a grinding halt. Just keep these tips in mind.

Pedestrian traffic patterns in New York are divided into several lanes going in either direction. You would do well to follow them, and not try and fight the crowd. In busy parts of town, such as Midtown, the savvy walker will notice that there are five streams of traffic: one lane each way in the middle, a slightly slower lane next to buildings, a fast lane on the outside, and a super-fast lane of walkers near or actually in the street. Find the lane that suits you and follow the crowd at a steady pace. Don’t behave erratically, or try to dart ahead of people in your same lane. Most importantly, don’t make any sudden about-faces or abrupt stops; you are likely to cause a pedestrian pile-up. And don’t hustle on over to the fast lane, only to slow your pace. Go with the flow.

If you or your entourage need to stop for any reason, follow the rules of the road: Merge safely to the inside lane (next to a building), glance over your shoulder for fast-movers approaching from behind, and then stop. Don’t block paths of egress, don’t stop in the middle of the sidewalk to tie your shoe or check your map, and whatever you do, do not stop moving! This thriving metropolis of more than 8 million people are not going to be voluntarily late to the pressing engagements of their lives while you decide whether or not you’d like to pop into Starbucks for a latte.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

How To Walk in Manhattan

Dear tourists: Welcome to New York. We hate you, your suburban attitudes, your blinding, bright-white sneakers, and your fanny packs! But please bolster our economy by spending lots of money. And try to follow our rules.

Fuck You, We’re Not Rude!
No matter what the rest of the world might believe, New Yorkers are not inherently rude. We may be brusque, we often voice our opinions (even when unsolicited), and we will sometimes even breeze by someone who is clearly in need of help, but it’s not because we totally hate your stinking guts. It’s just that we have places to be, and don’t take kindly to having our precious time wasted. Navigating the city and its hordes of huddled masses yearning to breathe free takes time, and you blocking the sidewalk like the wretched refuse of our teeming shores doesn’t help the cause any.

In general, New Yorkers will help a lost lamb find its way—as long as you keep it short. Try and know where you need to go, and ask passers-by simple questions, such as “Which way to Seventh Avenue?” Questions that can be answered by a quick hand gesture are best.

However, sometimes you need more detailed directions about a specific place in the part of town you are in. I suggest asking someone walking a dog—you know they live in the area, and are less likely to be beating feet on the way to work. Cops sometimes know something about the area, but don’t approach them unless you really love cops. Avoid asking street vendors—they are often painfully ignorant of their surroundings, and will give a soupçon of totally unwarranted attitude with their uninformed answer.

The Two-Wide Rule
Unless you are ambling through the Cloisters or some similarly wild and wooly urban nature area, the hard and fast rule regarding walking in New York City is to maintain a two-wide maximum. What that means for you and your extended family unit is that you cannot fan out like Minesweeper and expect everyone to move out of the way while you meander through Times Square, pointing up toward the sky and taking pictures. Two people across, max, means exactly that. If you have three people, one goes behind. If you have four, that means two pairs of twos. Get it? Good. Do not make me cut a bitch.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Fuck Google Maps

Many people may point to Google maps as if advice like mine were now no longer warranted. No, I resolutely reply, How to Ride is not about station stops and shortcuts, but about etiquette and insider-rider savvy. To be fair, I accessed Google maps to see what kinds of advice they would offer regarding my morning commute. The results were laughable, I daresay even ludicrous: to travel from Bay Ridge, Brooklyn to Wall Street, they suggested taking the R to Atlantic Ave./Pacific St., and transferring to the 2/3 to Wall Street.

This is wrong on so many fronts. First of all, if you are traveling during morning rush hour, every other R train will meet up with an N express at 59th Street. Transfer there and take the express all the way to Atlantic Ave./Pacific St., keeping an eye out for the M local train on the opposite track, which will take you in only four stops to Broad Street, at the corner of Wall. Bada-boom, bada-bing.

If you miss the express and take the R train local all the way to the top of Brooklyn, it doesn’t make sense to switch at all—you may as well go four more stops and just walk up Water Street to Wall. It takes only five minutes. And, what Google maps won’t tell you about their “handy” 2/3 transfer is that going between these two tracks means navigating about 200 stairs. There is a hefty, steep flight up from the N/R, another steep flight down, a short traverse through the underground passage, and then a hustle up another very steep staircase. All in morning rush hour. Plus, once you are there, the 2/3 train still hits about six stops before it reaches Wall Street.

My point being, how this can possibly be considered the shortest route? This leads me to my aforementioned conclusion: Fuck Google maps.

At this point, I consider it behoovy of me to share with you some of the best shortcuts I have learned throughout the years.

--Keep moving forward! If a train comes that is going in your direction, take it. You may meet up with your train at a future stop.

--If you miss your transfer to the downtown D/B express trains at W. 4th St. and an F/V train is across the platform, hop on. You should be able to catch up with the express at Broadway/Lafayette St.

--When going to Times Square, a Q train is often a less-crowded alternative to other express trains.

--Take the A train to get uptown to Harlem and Washington Heights quickly. It is sometimes even faster to overshoot your stop and take the local back.

--Don’t fall into the trap of thinking the G train offers a valid route from the southern part of Brooklyn through Williamsburg. It might as well not even exist, as rare as it appears. Although it seems longer on the map, you are much better off taking a train to Union Square, and transferring to the L train.

Monday, April 27, 2009

Junk Trains and Money Trains

Some nights, you’ll wait a good long time for those headlights on the track, but when the train finally hits the station, the windows are blackened, and it doesn’t even slow down, or else it’s a ramshackle wooden contraption filled with tools and bins. What are these not-regular trains? They are the trash train and the money train.

The ramshackle trains pulling the rusty yellow wooden flatbeds full of green bins is the trash train. Late at night when most people are already asleep, subway workers move from station to station, removing the trash bins from the closets at the end of some subway stations and replacing them with empty green bins pulled from off the cattle car. This is truly a fascinating thing to watch, especially because you can get real close to the train and peek around inside at all the assorted detritus of city living.

The money train is another matter altogether. Officially, this train was retired in 2006; the advent of Metrocards made its late night runs as obsolete as the Wesley Snipes/Woody Harrelson movie of the same name. The money train was the yellow and black striped train with the blacked-out windows that transported the daily MTA take to the King Midas money counting chamber. It was heavily guarded, so riders wouldn’t get any ideas about hijacking it… this wasn’t The Taking of Pelham One Two Three here….although I did hear they are releasing a remake of this classic in June ’09, starring John Travolta, Denzel Washington, and John Turturro.

My karate sensei, who works for the MTA, told a story of being a young man in Brooklyn and running to catch the train. He leapt over the staircase railing and into the train just as the doors closed, only to find a cadre of police officers with their firearms trained on him. Having jumped unawares into the money train, he threw his arms up in surrender, saying, “I’m just a kid!” Eventually they let him go.

If you’re interested in how the money train works, the MTA Transit Museum offers a “Show Me The Money” exhibit for kids 4 and older at the end of May, in which participants can help collect fares on a route through the museum. Click here for more info.